October in Fashion, Condensed.
Inside the Shein Machine, fashion's 'Copy and Paste Era', the resale sector's authenticity issues, and why stats about the industry's global impact are wrong.
This month, Channel 4 released a documentary called Inside the Shein Machine. The show looks into the business of ultra-fast fashion, how Shein keeps it prices low and volume high, the working conditions of people inside a few factories, and the people who buy from the brand.
The reaction on social media has been illuminating. Lots of people were shocked by the revelations about Shein’s labour conditions, despite the fact that the human impact of fast fashion has been pretty well documented for at least 10 years. Some vowed to go cold turkey, but lots more have dug in their heels and (bizarrely) defended Shein.
A few excuses I’ve seen: Shein’s low price point is the only way people can express and explore their personal style, Shein’s extended sizing is accessible to women who can’t shop on the high street, and that criticising Shein is classist because people who can’t afford more expensive alternatives deserve nice things too. Ironically, Shein clothes were found to be full of lead and other toxic chemicals, so our definition of “nice” might be a bit skewed.
Stylist and educator Lakyn Carlton skillfully shut down these excuses in a Substack post called Sustainability Bingo: Dispelling the Myths which I encourage you to read.
I also want to mention that this discussion isn’t about comparing Shein to other fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara. Just because they produce clothing on a smaller scale, doesn’t mean they’re better alternatives. In fact, they’re just as bad when it comes to underpaying garment workers, a central issue of the documentary. Not to mention they literally invented the fast fashion machine that gave us Shein in the first place.
Don’t get me wrong, I love that Inside the Shein Machine has reignited dialogue around the harm fast fashion is causing garment makers, but as with most things on the social media, the conversation lacks nuance. When it’s framed as a black and white issue (Shein is bad and you’re bad if you buy it) then it’s hardly a surprise when consumers try to defend their beloved tax-avoiding, over-producing, slave labour-using ultra-fast fashion giant.
While I often promote a less judgemental approach to changing the behaviour of fast fashion shoppers, the conversation clearly isn’t moving forward fast enough or reaching the people it needs to. Perhaps a bit of judgement ain’t a bad thing? Aja Barber recently took to Instagram to talk about the transformative power of shame, saying:
“I’m becoming increasingly uncomfortable with how angry people get with the idea that they should feel anything but happiness and joy over their decisions to willfully participate in harm done to others ESPECIALLY WHEN THEY DON’T HAVE TO. People legit acting like spending more money time and energy researching your clothes and seeking out better options is on par with the same oppression as the person working 14 hour days to make £3.50. I’m a bit disgusted by it. The ducking and dodging of accountability.” You can read Aja’s full post here.
As always, I love to hear your feedback and thoughts, especially if you saw the Shein documentary (linked below). Hit reply at the end of the email to get in touch!
Until next month,
Meg X
Things I Wrote/Said
Stats About Fashion's Global Impact Are Wrong – Here's Why for Harper’s Bazaar.
Misinformation and fake news are undermining fashion’s sustainability progress.
How To Revamp Your Wardrobe Without Buying Anything New Harper’s Bazaar.
Stuck in a rut? A sustainable fashion stylist could help you rediscover your personal style.
Watch: Designer and Sustainability Trailblazer Patrick McDowell in Conversation for Graduate Fashion Week International.
I spoke with Patrick McDowell following his SS23 show “Marie Antoinette Goes to Liverpool” to learn more about his work, the intriguing new collection and much more.
Listen: Coperni’s Spray on Dress and the Future of Fashion Fabrics for BBC Woman’s Hour.
I was interviewed on the BBC’s Woman’s Hour show this month about Coperni’s viral fashion week moment where they used a spray called Fabrican to create a dress on model Bella Hadid. We spoke about the likelihood that we’ll be spraying on our clothes and other exciting material innovations. Listen from 47:40 to hear the segment!
Things I Didn’t Write
Am I The Only One Feeling Disillusioned About This Fashion Month? by Emily Chan for British Vogue
What Our Closets Say About Our Bad Fashion Habits by Helen Barrett for Financial Times
Are Luxury Fashion Brands More Sustainable? by Sophie Caldecott for Remake
Sustainability-Linked Finance is Fashion’s Latest Trend, But Will it Work? by Amy Nguyen for Raconteur
6 Expert Tips For Looking After Your Knitwear by Emily Chan for British Vogue
Fashion is in its Copy and Paste Era by Sophie Benson for Everpress
Can Browser Plug-ins Push Consumers to Shop More Sustainably? by Bella Webb for Vogue Business
Ethical Leather is the Biggest Fight in Fashion Right Now by Alyssa Hardy for InStyle
Authenticity Fail: Can Resale Sites Ever Fix Themselves? by Eugene Rabkin for HighSnobiety
Is Biodegradable Fashion as Good as it Sounds? by Sophie Benson for Dazed
The To-Do List
The Interline Podcast: Where Sustainability Really Stands (31 min)
I really enjoyed this episode of the Interline podcast featuring Ruth MacGilp, communications manager at Fashion Revolution. The episode is a great overview of the key issues facing fashion’s sustainability agenda, including fair wages, the industry’s focus on environmental vs social sustainability, and the importance of transparency.
UNTOLD by Channel 4: Inside the Shein Machine (47 min)
If you’re in the UK, I really recommend checking out the Shein documentary.
This month, a new circular fashion platform has launched called Alterist. It’s a circular fashion marketplace that collaborates with designers to reimagine textile waste into new products.
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