August in Sustainable Fashion, Condensed.
The fashion leaders 'embarrassed' to be in the industry, style psychology and the drivers of consumption, plus how long should our clothes last?
Hi there,
This month, I had an interesting experience which was a certainly first in my career. It started with my editor at EcoCult, Alden, asking me to investigate Desserto cactus leather — a leather alternative made from Nopal cactus leaves and various “non-toxic, plant-based chemicals” that are patented by Desserto and therefore top-secret.
I did my research, interviewed the founder twice, then wrote the story. Although I didn’t give it a glowing review because there were big question marks over those aforementioned chemicals, I was satisfied that from what I had learnt, it was more eco-friendly than bovine leather and synthetic leather made from PVC or PU (i.e plastic). After all, Nopal cactus, the star ingredient of Desserto, has a really low water and carbon footprint, it’s biodegradable, and thrives in harsh desert conditions where little else grows.
Cut to publication day when some helpful material science experts signposted us to a 2021 report revealing those secret chemicals. Turns out, the Desserto material they tested actually contained five restricted substances, all but one of which are used to make PU synthetic leather. When I put these findings to the founder, I couldn’t really get a straight answer.
I updated my story with this new information and felt a bit annoyed with myself that I had come to an incomplete conclusion about Desserto.
Clearly, the full story is complex. There are many different versions of Desserto, all with different ingredients (some toxic, some not) and varying amounts of cactus. I’m not sure that we’ll ever know what actually turns cactus leaves into leather, but I’m sure that this applies to plenty of other plant-based vegan leather alternatives, too.
I learnt a lot of lessons from this experience and it also made me reflect on just how difficult it is to get to the truth of what’s in our clothing. If it’s almost impossible for a journalist to get to the bottom of it, how can shoppers make an informed decision about what they’re buying? No wonder the world of sustainable materials leaves most people (me included) completely baffled from time to time. One thing is for sure, when something seems too good to be true, it probably is.
As always, I love to hear your feedback and thoughts. Hit reply at the end of the email to get in touch! Until next month,
Meg X
Things I Did Write
From 30 Wears to 30 Years: How Long Should Our Clothes Last? for Harper’s Bazaar.
For years, the benchmark for buying a new purchase has been a minimum of 30 wears, but is this enough?
What is Desserto Cactus Leather and is it Sustainable? for EcoCult.
How exactly do you turn a cactus plant into leather, and is it actually more sustainable than other leathers on the market? Let’s find out.
Inside the Great Mall Rebrand for Glossy.
As the world emerges from the pandemic more environmentally conscious and spending more time and money online, what exactly is the shopping mall’s purpose? And can malls adapt to this value shift fast enough to survive?
Things I Didn’t Write
Revealed: UK Fast Fashion Staff Deprived Of Pay By Jobs Agency by Shanti Das for The Guardian
ASOS Quietly Got Rid Of Its ‘responsible’ Clothing Collection Ahead Of CMA Greenwashing Probe by Madeleine Cuff & Tom Saunders for iNews.
The Fashion Leaders 'Embarrassed' To Be In The Industry by Leah Dolan for CNN Style.
Fast Fashion Brands Launching Resale Platforms: Circular or Cynical? by Sophie Benson for Good On You.
The Key Fashion Pieces Right Now? Clothes You’ll Want To Still Wear (Or Sell On) In Five Years’ Time by Jess Cartner-Morley for the Guardian.
5 Toxic Chemicals Used In Fast Fashion Clothing, And How They Can Affect Your Immune System by Allana Akhtar for Insider.
Is Menswear Rental Worth The Hassle? by Harvey James for Highsnobiety.
H&M Is Being Sued for Greenwashing. What Does That Mean For Fashion? by Alden Wicker for the Cut.
Why Fast Fashion Isn’t Going Anywhere Until We Raise The Minimum Wage by Nina Miyashita for Fashion Journal.
From Attire to Ashes: Clothing Waste in the Atacama Desert by Daphne Chouliaraki Milner for Atmos.
Why We Buy Clothes We Like And End Up With A Wardrobe We Hate by Max Berlinger for Mr Porter.
The To-Do List
Second Hand September starts tomorrow! Can you buy only second hand clothes for the next 30 days? Sign up below to get involved.
How Researchers Hack Bacteria To Dye Blue Jeans by Seeker at The Verge. (8 min)
The synthetic Indigo dye that gives our jeans that signature blue hue is surprisingly (or unsurprisingly?) pretty toxic. This deep dive into how our jeans are made, and how a team of scientists are achieving that blue in a more sustainable way, is super interesting.
Style Psychology and the Drivers of Consumption with Dr. Dion Terrelonge by the Conscious Style podcast. (1 hr 10 min)
I’m so interested in the psychology of shopping and what spurs us on to buy more and more. This episode of the Conscious Style pocast features Dr. Dion Terrelonge and covers clothing, identity and the reasons why we overconsume despite knowing that it’s not great for us or the planet. A must-listen!
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