August in Fashion, Condensed.
An interview with fair fashion pioneer Safia Minney plus the era of ultra-cheap stuff is under threat and Fashioning the Future with War on Want.
Hello there,
This week, I was invited to be a jury member for the London heat of the Circular Design Challenge. The CDC is India’s largest circular fashion competition and is hosted by Lakmé Fashion Week, the British Council, and The United Nations in India.
Four emerging designers presented collections that were made in line with the competition’s circularity criteria: biodegradable or recyclable, multifunctional and/or durable, ethically made, and with an emphasis on social impact.
We chose Sri Lankan designer Amesh Wijesekera to go on the next round of the competition. Wijesekera uses deadstock and unwanted materials found in Sri Lankan markets to create vivid menswear collections that celebrate his queer identity and heritage. Everything from his construction to campaign imagery is meticulous and evocative.
In learning more about the work and ambitions of the designers, I was struck by their perspective on the fashion industry. None of them wanted to be fashion week brands. They didn’t want to be stocked in all the big retailers. They didn’t want to release four + collections a year. In short, they’re pushing back against all the expectations and common aspirations of a young brand and doing things on their own terms. They’re forging a more sustainable path for themselves, in every sense of the word.
Another Fashion Month is around the corner. All pandemic discussions to rethink the fashion week circus for the sake of the designers and the environment seem to have been forgotten. We’re back to the old frenetic pace and the same astronomical demands on designers who invest so much money, energy, time and resources into creating a show.
For what? How many LFW brands from 10 years ago are still going? How many designers have burnt out, quit the business, or gone bankrupt? Brands face so much pressure to play the game, but very few win. How many times do we have to agree that the fashion week system is broken (and pretty much rigged against these brands) before we change the system?
It’s so encouraging to see emerging designers like Amesh reject the old way of working. I hope that more young designers will follow suit, embracing a more sustainable business model that allows them time and space to explore their ideas and organically build a business that can sustain their creativity and livelihood.
As ever, I love to hear your thoughts and burning sustainable fashion questions. Hit reply at the end of the email to get in touch.
Until next month,
Meg X
Things I Did Write
The Needle Movers: Innovations In Sustainable Fashion 2023-24 for Good On You
My debut story for Good On You was a doozy! I was asked to highlight truly innovative companies moving the needle on fashion’s biggest challenges. Too often what’s described as innovative never lives up to the hype, so here are 16 companies across fashion tech, workers upskilling, materials, the circular economy and more to keep an eye on.
Things I Didn’t Write
The Era of Ultracheap Stuff Is Under Threat by Jon Emont for the Wall Street Journal
The Backbone Of Exploitation: Experts Discuss Unfair Purchasing Practices by Fashion Revolution
Reality Check: Environmental Textile Certifications by Tanita Hecking and Lavinia Muth for The Crisps (I highly recommend subscribing to this newsletter!)
Empowering Reads: 7 Books for Navigating Eco-Anxiety by Remake
Can Fast Fashion Kick Its Dirty Habits? by Lauren Indvik and Alice Hancock for the Financial Times.
Will The Latest EU Sustainability Regulations Lead To Revolution? by Ben Hanson for the Interline
The To-Do List
Fashion Declares! The Regenerative Fashion Conference
On the 14th of September, the advocacy group Fashion Declares! will host its first conference in London. Led by founder Safia Minney, there will be three sessions that focus on nature and climate, people and livelihoods, and inspiring cultural change through fashion. You can join one or all of the panel discussions, and I’ve been told there is also a fashion show and performance to round off the day!
ReGo x BEEN London Launch & Panel Discussion (hosted by me!)
On the 6th of September in East London, I’ll be hosting a panel discussion to celebrate the launch of a collaboration between ReGo and BEEN London. Together, they have created a limited edition collection of recycled leather pouches, finished with zippers made from discarded knives taken off London streets. ReGo is a project by the London College of Fashion that partners four young East Londoners with local brands to co-create accessories. The aim is to address knife crime through community engagement and skills development. Read about ReGo here or join us next week for what will be an inspiring discussion!
War on Want report: Fashioning the Future
Anti-poverty charity War on Want has just released a report called Fashioning the Future, which provides a really thorough overview of the systemic issues facing fashion, from the just transition to centring workers’ empowerment in the industry. It answers the thorny questions (excuses) that ‘Big Fashion’ always throws out there to avoid accountability and action. Worth a read!
Stop Waste Colonialism! Panel Discussion
Okay, just one more London panel talk for you — there are so many coming up! On the 7th of September, the OR Foundation, a leading group tackling textile waste on the ground in Ghana, will host this discussion on waste colonialism in London.
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This month, paid subscribers can listen to my conversation with Safia Minney, founder of one of the world’s first fair trade fashion brands People Tree, the author of four sustainable fashion books, and the founder of NGO Fashion Declares!